A 15 minute ferry ride from Cancun takes you to Isla Mujeres. Less than four and a half miles long and perfect for motorcycling. But everyone on Isla rides a scooter and after a few days we can say it’s the ideal ride on island paradiso. Scooters are an extension of the local persona the way cars are in Houston but the skills here are unsurpassed. You’ll see whole families, dogs, and passengers balancing everything from furniture to a stack of two-by-fours on their shoulders while riding. No matter how fast you go they will pass you on the left or the right. And an eerie quiet is all you’ll hear from the multitude of scooters in motion. The engines are nearly silent, no one ever honks, and we’ve yet to see a collision. It’s reminiscent of the Terminal floor at Grand Central Station. There’s no accounting for it.

It isn’t long before our thoughts turn to food. There’s no shortage of great dives on Isla but you have to know someone who can direct you to the really great ones.

Happy Hour is an American tradition and Casa Sirena maintains that for hotel guests and ex-pats. Every night about 6:30 the games begin at the rooftop bar. The views of the sunset and the city are ironically sobering. The owner is a world-class bartender, hotelier, and in a former life a graphic designer. His little 6 room hotel is even more well-conceived than his cocktails.

Roof top bar at Casa Sirena

Sunset from roof-top bar at Casa Sirena

Sunsets are different every night. Whether the roof-top bar at Casa Sirena or on the beach, pick your spot and be ready to share—everyone has the same idea and it never gets old. It’s like seeing color for the first time every evening.