Steel Waves – The Tao Of Surfing

When we were young we thought heaven was dropping-in on the face of a beautiful wave…

At 60 my friend exhibits the same form of his youth: intent, patient, deliberate, aggressive engagement with one of nature’s wonders — the perfect wave. For him it could be a smooth 8 ft right-break in Costa Rica or a rough 2 ft point-break at Pirates Beach on Galveston Island. He engages both with the same devotion to perfection, the same quest for heaven.

Surfing enables us to see beyond through intense physical contact with nature — washing over us, carrying us forward, slapping us silly. It changes how we see.

JBM catching a wave

JBM dropped in

JBM bailing

JBM seagulls

Pirates Beach on Galveston Island – June 2013

Published by


Publishes Steel Wheels - The Tao Of Motorcycling:

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s