When we were young we thought heaven was dropping-in on the face of a beautiful wave…
At 60 my friend exhibits the same form of his youth: intent, patient, deliberate, aggressive engagement with one of nature’s wonders — the perfect wave. For him it could be a smooth 8 ft right-break in Costa Rica or a rough 2 ft point-break at Pirates Beach on Galveston Island. He engages both with the same devotion to perfection, the same quest for heaven.
Surfing enables us to see beyond through intense physical contact with nature — washing over us, carrying us forward, slapping us silly. It changes how we see.
Pirates Beach on Galveston Island – June 2013
Steel Wheels 